Two young American climbers, Jeremy Roop and Joe Forrester, have put up a new route on the upper part of the West Face of Chambe Peak, Mulanje.
The new route is to the climbers’ left of Roshnik’s Route, and climbers' right of the route pioneered by Frank Eastwood in the late 1970s. Jeremy and Joe describe it as ' a nightmarishly vegetated slot for 3,000 feet, requiring every jungleneering skill we had'. The highlight was a 600-foot section they named Shelob’s Lair. They decided to call the route Nkhalango Khoswe (Chichewa for ‘Jungle Rats’) and graded it IV 5.10, 3,000 ft + (915m+).
They also succeeded in free climbing the Eastwood route up the lower section of the face, rating it III 5.10d, 2,000 feet (609m). This may well also be a first.
Their experiences are described in an article in the November issue of the MCM Newsletter, emailed to MCM members.

The Newsletter also contains an account of a new route from Madzeka Hut to Minunu Hut on the south of the Mulanje plateau, pioneered by MCM Chairperson Maggie O'Toole and Brian Lewis. More details on the Mulanje Routes page.

Welcome

The Mountain Club of Malawi is a social club for residents of Malawi and visitors affiliated with mountain clubs in other countries. It aims to encourage and assist people to make the most of the unique opportunities that Malawi provides.


On Mulanje, heading to Chisepo Hut from Chambe, across the foothills of North Peak.

Malawi has many enchanting and challenging mountains that support an amazing variety of flora and fauna. Gentle streams quench the thirst, refreshing pools ease weary limbs, and raging rivers display the power of the high, steep lands you have entered.

The Mulanje Massif is one of Malawi’s most beautiful mountain areas. The many spiritual beliefs associated with it are fascinating to learn about and should be respected. The nine huts on the mountain owned by the Forestry Department and maintained by the Mountain Club and the Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust (MMCT) enable Club Members to enjoy Mulanje to the full.

Sadly, all Malawi's mountain areas are increasingly threatened by population pressure and the destruction of natural resources. MMCT is working to find ways to protect the biodiversity and beauty of Mulanje while at the same time developing and supporting realistic alternatives for the communities that depend on its resources.

The MCM welcomes people of all interests and capacities.To apply for membership, please go to the Forms or Contact pages. Current annual subscription rates are MKW 1,500 for Individuals and MKW 2,500 for Families (including children up to 15).

Malawi Weather

Mountain weather can be severe and unpredictable, and should always be checked locally before setting off on a trip. However, an indication of general conditions in Malawi is available from the freemeteo.com web site, and the main mountain areas of Mulanje, Zomba, Dedza and Nyika are shown below. Note that these are NOT the same conditions that you will find at altitude!

Last Updated: 27/11/09